UV Sterilizers 36W Turbo Twist UV
UV Sterilizers 36W Turbo Twist UV
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Related Item(s):
UV Lamps – Emperor Aquatics, 65 Watt (#20065)
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50 Watt Savio UV Lamp
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UV Sterilizers 36W Turbo Twist UV
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UV Lamps – Emperor Aquatics, 65 Watt (#20065)
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50 Watt Savio UV Lamp
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What type of pond
You should consider first what type of pond you want, in this case pond with waterfall feature. Would it be a home for fish and plants, these are things that you should take into consideration as well. But please keep in mind the most common mistake made when constructing a pond is the size, do not make it too small, if you decide to add fish at a later date, it will only make you more work as your pond may not be big enough.
Location
You will enjoy your pond more if you install it close to your home, or window, this way you can watch all the wild life visiting all year round. The pond needs to be located away from any drain pipes, keeping it away from any run off of rain, as this may contain contaminates. Also do not build your pond too near to trees as you will always have to be removing dead leaves and debris. Try to position your pond where it will receive a maximum amount of direct sunlight, this will aid the growth of plant life.
Determine the size and shape of your pond
This can easily be done by using a length of rope or string, or even a garden hose pipe. Lay the rope down where you require to the shape you want, you can then either peg the rope down, or use chalk powder. Now you can start to excavate, digging it to approximate six inch depth, making this the first shelf., this is called the coping shelf, dig down a further twelve inches making this the second shelf, and then a further six inches to the base of the pond. The reason for this shelving is for different types of plant life, and maybe the fish you are going to put into your pond. Remember a larger pond is more stable and easier to keep.
Construction
Once you have got your pond excavated and ready, you need to line the hole with soft sand, minimum of half an inch thickness, and pat down firmly. You are now ready to line your pond. You can buy pond liners from any good garden centre or pond specialist. Determining the size of your pond liner is simple, measure the maximum length and width, add the depth twice to these measurements, plus a foot or two for overlap and this will give you the size. Lay the liner into the bottom of the pond and feed it into the contours of the shape, remembering first to remove your shoes before getting into the pond. Once you have completed all the contours pushing the liner into the back of the shelves, keeping folds to a minimum, start to fill your pond.
Waterfall
This is the time to start construction of your waterfall, first we raise the level to make a slope for your waterfall, this can be achieved by either a pre-formed waterfall mould, or you can make it yourself by using stones, or soil remembering to shelve it up to the desired height, cover this with more soft sand then place either your preformed waterfall mould or rubber liner, making sure if you use the liner that you have it pushed well back into all the recesses. Then you can add an external water tank, which will re-circulate the water from the pond down through the water fall, to do this you will need either an electrical pump, or solar pump, you can both from a garden centres or pond specialists. The pump should be placed in the bottom of the pond with a feed pipe running to the waterfall tank, this pipe should be buried in the ground for safety reasons and not be unsightly,
The finishing touches
All around the pond, your first shelf which was called the coping shelf is now ready to have the coping stones put in place, these can either be decorative paving stone, or cobble stones, this holds the liner in place and gives wild life a way of climbing in and out of your pond. It does not harm adding a few stones onto the other shelves of your pond. This is also the time to add your plants such as water lilies, oxygenated plants and other decorative water plants that add colour to your pond throughout the year. Now you should link your pump to the power supply, switch on, and then you will see the water level go down, now add more water to just below the coping stones and then you have your final result.
Your pond will be a really nice relaxing feature in your garden, to watch and listen to on warm summer evenings.
Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For pond waterfalls, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK’s leading suppliers of pond waterfalls.
Barley Straw Pond Water Treatment 2pk – Large (treats 1000gal Per Pack) |
Barley Straw Pond Water Treatment 2pk – Small (treats 500gal Per Pack)
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BEAD FILTER BACTERIA GALLON
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Bulbrite F20WS/GR/AQ – 518021
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Bulbrite F40/GR/AQ – 518040
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ESPOMA HT8 “HOLLY-TONE” PLANT FOOD
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Battery-Powered Fence Energizer 5 acre range
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Zareba Electric Fence Black Pinlock Wood-Post Insulator With Nails – 25 Pack PL25WP
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Master Mark Plastics 22620 Master Gardener Black 20-Foot-by-6-Inch Deep Edge Landscape Edging, Black
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Beckett #7071510 Round Plant Basket
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Beckett #7114910 12CT Aquatic Plant Food
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Bulbrite BTL – 762010
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What do some liner promoters and salesmen say about professional pond installations using concrete and rebar, plus mortar to hold the rocks?
(1) “One problem with concrete and mortar construction is that of cement alkali leaching out for some time after construction, poisoning the pond water with high alkalinity. It also leaves unsightly white deposit build-ups at the points of exit and on the surface of rocks in the waterfall.”
NOT TRUE! If the concrete you use to pour the shell is a 7-sack mix with 40% pea gravel and stealth fiber mix, the concrete is so dense that no leaching can even occur. Also, because of the density of the concrete, it is not only waterproof, but stronger than normal 5-sack mix used to pour driveways, patios and sidewalks. Finally, if you coat the finished surface with Thoro-seal, one of several non toxic concrete sealers, it cannot leach.
(2) “When you use mortar mix to secure the rocks in a waterfall, the water that soaks into the porous mortar joints, leaches out alkali and phosphorescence that poisons the pond.
TRUE in the past, but not anymore. Regular mortar is porous, allowing water to pass through, dissolving and collecting the cement residue. This had been a major concern of mine for many years. After the completion of a waterfall, I would have to run the waterfall for two or three weeks, shutting it off every 4 or 5 days, and acid-clean the white alkali residue off the rocks that had built up. Then, when we were finished, we would have to acid clean and rinse out the pond.
Twelve years ago I discovered a secret formula that would render the mortar mix non porous and waterproof. It also makes regular mortar mix three times stronger. It is produced by adding one 45# bag of thinset (used to apply ceramic tile to a shower wall) to two bags of type S mortar mix. Once it cures, it becomes so dense, it is totally waterproof and will not leach any alkali after it cures (3 to 4 days). In addition, this mix is so strong in its holding ability that once it cures, a sledge hammer is needed to remove a rock. In most cases, the rock breaks up before coming free from the secret formula mortar.
It is not only waterproof, but it bonds very well with all types and textures of rocks. It will create a watertight barrier that comes in handy when building rock damns in the waterfall. The main feature of my special formula, is that it allows for much more creativity. You have the ability to raise the water level above the confines of the concrete shell without water leaking through the mortar joints, as in the case of regular type mortar mix.
This special mix is not for sale in the stores, and never will be, because I give the formula away for free! This discovery has revolutionized the effectiveness of mortar mix and its ability to bond, waterproof, and prevent alkali leaching.
A Dramatic Test
A 4,000 gallon swimming pool was converted into a concrete koi pond with two large waterfalls, held together with my new mortar mix, and an 8′ x 12′ island. The rocks surrounding the island, were also held by the new formula. When the project was completed, all the surfaces were given a quick, mild acid wash, and the pond was filled and dechlorinator was added. The following day, $3,000 worth of my own personal koi fish were transferred into the concrete koi pond. They all swam calmly around the island, inspecting every nook and cranny. None of them experienced any stress and they remained in their temporary quarters for three months with no incidents. If that dramatic demonstration was not enough to convert the skeptics, nothing will.
So what is the bottom line?
Pond liners cannot be guaranteed not to leak, for a myriad of reasons. Concrete and rebar ponds, if built properly, will stay leak-free for decades, if not generations. You be the judge. You’re the one investing your hard earned money and time into it.
Be as wise as an owl and as sharp as the many objects that can puncture a liner shell.
Look before you leap and research before you weep. Don’t be pennywise and [pond] foolish. Happy koi, peace & joy.
Liner ponds leak, concrete ponds leach. Fish get diseases if they are not eaten first. Algae are a constant problem. And what about mosquitoes and West or East Nile Virus?
Ponds are high maintenance, so do I get a pressurized bead bio-filter? Do I get an up-flow filter or down-flow filter? Or a side-flow? How about a waterfall? Bio-falls? Pondless falls? Liner fall? Concrete fall?
I had a pond once, and you could not see the fish for the algae. Someone said to use algaecide, and somebody else said to get a U.V. Someone said to get more plants, and someone else said I had too many fish for the size of my pond. No problem…a crane ate half of them and last month a raccoon ate the rest.
Someone said I need a scarecrow sprinkler or a pond net. I asked, What for? I don’t have any fish, only lots of mosquitoes. So someone else said, buy some mosquito fish, you can get them free from the Department of Fish and Game. I got the mosquito fish, and my sump pump that the liner guy installed in my liner pond ate all my mosquito fish.
My pump was plugged with mosquito larvae and dead mosquito fish. Someone said I could scrape them off the pump screen with a kitchen knife. That worked well, but I accidentally stabbed the liner. I Googled leaky liner and found someone who calls himself The Fall Guy. He said I should get rid of my sump pump and liner and install a concrete and rebar pond with bottom drains and a high-performance, low-energy centrifugal pump, a pressurized back-flushable filter, a U.V. light, and an electronic auto-fill system.
He said that, unlike liners that have no warranty against acts of nature, concrete and rebar ponds which are built and sealed properly will last for decades. Plus, with the proper design and equipment, they will be next to maintenance-free.
I said, okay!
It cost me 20 percent more to do all this than what the original liner pond cost me to be installed.
It’s been 5 ½ years, I have a wooden deck built around my pond 14 inches above the pond surface. The pond is 3 feet deep in the shallow end, and 5 feet in the deep end. Raccoons hang onto the deck, lean over, and swipe at the surface of the water. Cranes stand at the edge wishing the pond was shallower or that they could bend down that far so they can scarf up a scaly snack. Their eyes are pathetic. I almost find myself sprinting to the kitchen to find them a snack. NOT!
Once a week I turn the handle on my bio-filter and back-flush the brown, nitrogen-laden waste water into several 5-gallon buckets from an attached flexible pool filter hose. Then I water my trees and plants with it. Talk about miracle grow!
After 1 to 2 minutes of back flushing, I pull the wiper plunger on my U.V. a few times to clean off the internal quartz lens housing the U.V. bulb. The film (pond scum) is instantly removed from the lens, giving the U.V. bulb 6 months of extra life.
The U.V. light kills pathogens that cause illness to my fish and other bacteria that cause the pond to stink. It also kills what is known as planktonic algae that turn the pond green. Twice a year I throw in some rock salt to keep the salt level at a specific gravity of 1.0. The fish have a healthy skin coat, my plants are happy, and string algae are virtually nonexistent. My water is crystal clear, and an electronic aquafill maintains the level of the water automatically.
Look before you leap and research before you weep.
Happy koi, peace and joy.
Pond pre-filters are usually encapsulated in a plastic case with some sort of foam rubber / filtration material surrounding it that filters out any debris before it enters your impeller and clogs up your pump. Pumps typically come equipped with a pre-filter when you purchase. Some pumps do require you buy it and install it separately. It is important for you to be cognizant of whether the pump comes with a pre-filter included prior to purchasing. Another variant to the pre-filter is called a pump sock. It’s typically netting, usually lined with a foam material that slips over your pump. Pump socks are not ideal because the pump can suck the bottom of the sock into the impeller which causes havoc and more work than if you had no pre-filter period.
Pond filtration bio-filters are installed outside the pond with a UV light attached seems to offer the best of all worlds. This filters can be used for either commercial or personal use such as a hobby (Koi Pond applications). The neat things about bio-filters are that they keep blanket weed and / or string algae and most other common algae out of the pond. There are several brand offerings all of which provide for good operation. Bead type filters come in a canister full of beads that resemble a packed full jar of milk duds. The small “beads” function as surface growth sites for bacteria and to help keep your pond clear. UV lighting destroys bad bacteria and suspended algae. Cleaning is simple thru a back-wash effort via a turn of the handle with very little water loss in the process. One potential downside to a system like this is cost. In some large pond applications the system can easily exceed $5,000 USD.
Pond filtration biofilters are truly versatile whereby they can be installed in or out of the pond. There is also the option of having UV combined with the operation which only enhances it overall functioning. Bio-filters build up a colony of good bacteria that eat algae and develop your pond into a balanced ecosystem.Mechanical filters simply filter out suspended particulate matter from your pond. The mechanical filter requires monthly cleaning to wash out the debris it has removed. Mechanical filters are typically less expensive than bio-filters.For larger ponds we recommend a bio-filter housed outside the pond. Gravity feed provides for the water to be pumped into the filter which then drains out into your pond. Typically you will want to cover your system in some fashion (fake rock). By adding a dedicated pump for this filter you then have the option of creating a splendid waterfall for your pond which will generate some nice natural noise. Bio filters can be left alone and cleaned yearly unless you feed your fish or have Koi. It is always a good idea to introduce aeration and create movement for ponds and waterfalls.
It is possible to create your own pond filtration apparatus. You should use at least a 5 gallon nursery pot which can typically be bought at your local Lowes or Home Depot store. The filter you build will be a container of lava rocks or bio balls which will act as the filtration medium. It is important to know that the water must cover the filter while the pond pump will be kept at ground level. You must get the water into the top of the filter and pull it out of the bottom with a small pond pump. This can be accomplished with a simple tap that attaches to the intake of the pump. An alternative method is to put the lava rock (or bio balls) into a mesh sack; then put the pump at the bottom of your filter apparatus with the bag on top. It is important to make sure the entire system is full of water so the pump is primed and ready so when it is plugged in the system is fully functional.
If you have no live fish, plants or debris which can get caught in the pump then it is possible to have no pond filtration. Without a filter we do recommend aeration and movement for all ponds and waterfalls to keep the water vibrant.
Tom Franklin has promoted pond aeration through the use of aerators and fountains in the Great Lake State of Michigan. http://www.ponds-and-waterfalls.com
Lily Gro 25tab |
Lily Gro 75tab |
LITTLE GIANT 500 Gal Biological Filter 566153
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Woodstock Percussion CRCBM Craftsman Chime, Black (Medium)
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Woodstock Temple Bells – Fuji
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Asli Arts Collection C103 Mini Coconut Chime
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Asli Arts Collection C101 Large Half Coconut Top Bamboo Chime
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Woodstock Percussion GBS Gregorian Baritone Chime, Silver
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Woodstock Celtic Chime
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Aquascape – EcoSystems EcoCarbon – Activated Charcoal – 9 lbs
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Aquascape – EcoSystems EcoFloc – Removes Suspended Particals – 8 oz
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Aquascape – EcoSystems EcoStarter Liquid 23 oz – Pond Start-up Treatment
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Bio-Blue Pond Colorant and Bacteria – 16 oz.
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Tetra Pond Block, 4PK, 1 Block Treats 250 Gallons
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One of the most challenging aspects of designing ponds and waterfalls is trying to convey my ideas to my client. Coming up with award-winning pond designs or implementing them using adequate skills and experience is not a problem. My challenge is getting my client to see what I see. Drawing and painting are not my forte; it is next to impossible for me to draw a rock, not to mention water. The hardest part for me is drawing perspective.
Prior to discovering the art of digital design my most common phrase used was , “Just trust me.” Wait till your pond and waterfall is finished, I promise you’ll like it. Unfortunately, “trust me” are the most common two words spoken by used car salesmen! Thank goodness that most of my clients were referrals from other satisfied customers and already knew what I was capable of creating. Imagine a referral customer base of over 1,900 satisfied clients.
A few years ago I discovered a computer program called Photo Shop and realized I could use it to create virtual photos of water features. I learned how to cut an item from one picture and paste it into another. Actually, that was nothing new for me since I did that in third grade. It’s called cut and paste. Only now I’m using a mouse instead of rounded scissors and edible white paste. (I hear the manufactures are adding vitamins to it now.
I started out scanning dozens of photographs into “Photo Shop,” which converted them into a digital image capable of being manipulated in hundreds or thousands of ways. The Photo Shop program has a large learning curve, especially for someone who is unfamiliar with graphic design techniques, so I started searching for a solution for my pond design department.
DIGITIZING PHOTOS
Microsoft has developed a user-friendly software (small learning curve) for working with photographs. They can be scanned into the program or digital photos from a digi-tal camera can be downloaded into the program. Then each picture can be enhanced through a variety of processes such as brightness, contrast, blur, tint, etc., all with a simple click of the mouse. Once the photo is finished, I can then cut out objects from the picture, such as rocks, groups of rocks, plants, or portions of the waterfall and pond. Which I did from several thousand photos of waterfalls and ponds I have constructed over the past 26 years. I gathered these jpg images into an indexed library.
Using this process with pictures from hundreds of my projects, I was able to build a substantial library of objects for pasting into the “before” photo of a client’s yard for a pond design. Now I can take a digital picture of someone’s yard and download it into Microsoft’s “Digital Image Suite ” program. Next, by dragging various items from my library, I can construct a waterfall and pond of any shape, size or configuration onto that picture.
So thanks to the arrival of the digital age, I can construct on paper a virtual image or idea that was in my head. As a result, my clients can see exactly what their pond and waterfall will look like when finished. Now a pond design takes only minutes. Whether you are building a waterfall and pond for yourself or for a customer a pond design or waterfall design can be a marvelous thing. Simply marvelous! Happy koi, peace & joy
18″ Handcrafted “Mansfield” All Cypress Wood Cupola
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22″ Handcrafted “Bristol” Copper Roof Wood Cupola
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22″ Handcrafted “Kingston” Copper Roof Vinyl Cupola
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Barley Straw Pellets + 2.2lb
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Barley Straw Pellets + 25lb Pail
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Barley Straw Pellets + 4.4lb
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Q What is the ideal depth for a koi pond?
A In my experience of over 25 years, 4 to 5 feet is ideal. You need a minimum of 3 feet for koi fish for several reasons. Safety for fish from wading cranes they can not wade in 3 feet of water. Plus the water temperature in shallow ponds fluctuates too much with the changes in ambient temperature. The greater the volume of water, the longer it takes for the temperature to change. Warm water or fluctuating temperatures are unhealthy for fish.
Q What is the ideal size for a pond?
A The ideal size would be determined by the size of your yard. Its size should be proportional to the size of the yard. Also, the larger the pond, the greater the maintenance.
Q What is your opinion on using a liner to construct a pond rather than using a hard molded or concrete one.
A My recommendation is and always has been to use concrete. However, if you are on a tight budget or do not plan on living there for an extended period time, a liner would be recommended. In this case, you would have to add a thin layer of mortar between the liner and soil to prevent tree roots, ground squirrels, rats, mice, gophers or chipmunks from compromising the liner. The hard molded, preformed plastic ponds become brittle from the sun’s UV rays in just a couple of years. No good!
Q What type of pond filter do you recommend?
A That cannot be answered simply because many factors are involved. Do you have an existing pond with a submersible pump or above-ground pump? What’s the volume of the pond? Do you have fish, and if so, how many? What size plumbing pipe is being used? This is so involved, I have devoted an entire chapter in my construction manual to the subject. I have an 8000 gallon pond with above-ground pump and I use a pressurized biological bead filter. It takes 2 minutes to back flush with the turn of a handle and keeps my pond crystal clear.
Q I have tons of algae hanging from the rocks in my falls and growing in clumps in my hand. What can I do to get rid of it?
A When the first Polynesians settled in Hawaii between 300 and 600 AD, they were probably very annoyed by the aggressive, wild, pervasive taro plant, just like you are your algae. They tried to chop it down, burn it, stomp it, but to no avail. It just came back, so they eat it, and still do to this day. In fact, it’s a staple like peanut butter is to some Americans. Just kidding! However, if you told me it was watercress I would suggest eating it. Many pond stores will try to sell you a very expensive algaecide to solve your problem, but all you need to do is increase the salt content of your water. Some experts recommend one pound of rock salt to every 100 gallons of water. This will not hurt your fish; in fact, it will help to produce a healthy shine coat. However, it will harm most of your plants if you apply that dose all at once. Plus the dead and decaying algae will deplete the oxygen and this will harm your fish. Apply it slowly over a week or two, and be patient. It takes longer to kill it this way, but your fish will appreciate it! This topic is also a chapter in my construction manual.
Q Should I keep salt in my pond on a regular basis?
A If you maintain a specific gravity of 1.000, your fish will be less susceptible to ulcer and fin rot. And you will keep the algae from getting out of control.
Q I am considering building a waterfall between my house and my neighbor’s against the fence. Will the sound of the falls annoy them if I let it run 24 hours a day?
A The sound generated by a waterfall is called white noise, which is very relaxing and soothing, not annoying. I have several hundred clients who leave their falls running 24/7 and none have ever had a neighbor complain. In fact, they all appreciate the fact that they did not have to spend the money to enjoy the sound.
Q How many koi fish can I put in my pond?
A The amount could range from 150 to 250 gallons per fish. If you are starting out with small 6″ to 8″ long koi, they can reach 2 feet in three years, depending on how much food and how often you feed them. They could even grow to over 3 feet long! The overcrowding of fish produces stress and a lot of waste material. It can reduce the health of the fish and result in various diseases. Also, a less crowded pond is more pleasant to look at.
Q Do I really need a filter in my pond?
A Not in every case. If your pond is small and you have any guppies or mosquito fish and adequate water plants covering 1/3 to ´ of your pond, your pond will clean itself by means of the nitrogen cycle. The biological aspects of pond chemistry is well covered in my waterfall and construction manual.
Q How long do koi fish live?
A The average life span of koi in Japan is 70 years. Some have been known to live to 100 or more, such as the legendary Hanako, alleged to have lived for over 200 years. Unlike the amazing results of the meticulous care the Japanese give their koi, American koi live a fraction of that time, usually due to neglect and lack of care or proper environment.
Q How can I protect my koi against predators?
A Unfortunately, most people that come to me are frustrated people who already have a pond or a rather poorly planned pond. If your pond is shallow, less than 3 feet, or has a shallow end, the raccoons, coyotes, cranes, egrets, etc. have easy access to your fish. You may think your fish are safe because you have a deep end for the fish to retreat to. Well, you and your fish are dead wrong. A crane will stand perfectly still for 10 to 20 minutes waiting for the koi to forget he is there. Some will regurgitate chum into the deep pond, luring the fish to the surface. Your only solution is a net, or try the crane statue, scarecrow, or high-frequency sound emitters for smaller animals. However, one of my clients watched a crane land next to his crane statue. While the scarecrow was pelting him with a stream of water, it snatched up one of their prize koi.
A critter-proof pond is over 3 feet everywhere and has a raised deck 13″ minimum over the water surrounding the pond. Raccoons cannot swim and catch fish at the same time, and they or the birds will not be able to reach the water.
Q I would like to have a koi pond but I live in Michigan and every year ponds and lakes freeze over. Will they survive?
A There are fish in those lakes you are talking about: blue gill, bass, sunfish, carp, and they all survive. And guess what? Koi are in the carp family. Koi were originally raised for food in Japan. They would grow rice in the summer and then flood the rice patties and raise koi in the winter, cutting holes in the ice to catch them for food. However, your pond must be 4 ´ to 6 feet deep to ensure the water stays about 40 o the bottom. Turn off the waterfall and bottom drain, draw water from the skimmer to keep the bottom still. Place swimming pool solar blankets over the surface. If your pond is deep enough, you can let it freeze over. However, you need to install a horse tank heater to keep a hole open in the ice to allow any ammonia gas from rotting debris on the bottom to escape. If your pond is less than 4 ´ feet deep, take the koi indoors for the winter and place them in a garage or basement tank.
Q Can I keep koi and goldfish together?
A Yes, you can. They are both cold water fish and members of the carp family. Most other cold water fish can also swim together, such as shubunkins, rudd, orfe, blue gill, mosquito fish, guppies, sunfish, bass, etc. However, only in deeper ponds where the mean temperature is 65 degrees or less on the bottom for bass, sunfish and blue gill.
Q Should my pond have a bottom drain?
A First of all, a bottom drain is essential for a healthy pond. However, if it is exposed and the suction is strong enough, turtles or fish can get stuck to it and not be able to get loose. Therefore, two drains should be hooked in series to relieve the pressure between them, just as in a swimming pool. Bottom drains draw falling waste from the fish before it reaches the bottom, keeping it clean. Areas where it does build up can be swept to the drains for easy cleaning. If you are using a submersible pump or pulling the water from a skimmer, water is not circulating properly on the bottom of the pond. That is where rotting debris is producing ammonia and other toxic gases.
Q My pond water is very clear, but my fish are dying. What is wrong?
A Drinking water might taste good, smell good, and look clear. But some of the most toxic chemicals that are known to cause cancer are colorless, odorless and tasteless. I recommend that you purchase a test kit form a pond store and check your water regularly. Nitrates, nitrite and ammonia are all detrimental to fish. Ammonia and nitrite can, at high levels, be fatal to fish. These substances are dissolved in the water and consequently are impossible to detect by the clarity of the water and they can break down the fishes’ immune system.
Q What type of filter do you recommend?
A For any pond over 1000 gallons, I recommend a pressurized biological bead filter that can be back washed. I have used Aqua Ultraviolet Ultima II filters for years. Most larger pond suppliers carry them. Their filters range from 1000 gallons to 10,000 gallons. Up-flow and gravity flow filters require regular cleaning, which is a filthy job. The filter media is packed with stinky, putrid fish waste and decaying pond scum. As you handle the filter screens, media, scrubbers, etc., you will have little white feces-eating worms that are 1/16″ long crawling on your hands and arms. Not to mention the noxious smell that burns your eyes and lungs.
It cost pennies on the dollar to make, yet dealers charge a fortune. You pay the price for the filter and in the time it takes to maintain it you pay an additional cost for your time maintaining it. With a pressurized filter, it only takes the turn of a handle for 2 to 3 minutes and the filter is clean. The waste water is not wasted either. You can water your plants with it using the discharge hose. If you can imagine, that brown, colored, stinky water is packed with nitrogen. It’s better than Miracle Grow T.M. I have used my 6000 gallon Ultima II for over eight years and it works as well now as they day it was installed. Happy, happy fish!
Q How much does an average pond cost?
A What is average? It depends on whether you are talking about a liner pond or a professional concrete and rebar pond. A typical liner pond can be 6 feet by 8 feet, and depending on who is installing it, could cost between $2,500 and $3,500. The other dimensions are pretty much proportionate. Liner ponds are susceptible to leaks from punctures, gophers, and rats, etc. Concrete ponds last for decades and on the average cost only 20% more than liner ponds.
Q My pond is green and I can not see my fish. What should I do?
A Your challenge is algae (suspended planktonic algae), which does not directly hurt the fish. However, algae gives off oxygen during the day from photosynthesis. But unfortunately, it uses up oxygen at night. In addition, it is unsightly and blocks the view of the fish. You can increase the salt content or install an ultraviolet light, which not only kills spore algae but kills the bacteria that causes the water to become murky and stinky.
Q I heard that UV light will also kill the beneficial bacteria. Is that true?
A If I say “No,” I am calling many so-called professional experts liars. So I will put it this way. All the beneficial pond bacteria such as aerobic or anaerobic bacteria, nitrobacter, etc., reside in the filter or in the decaying debris at the bottom of the pond. They aren’t floating around in the pond. Bacteria and algae containing pathogenic disease are, and as they pass through the UV light, they are eradicated.
Q Do I need a waterfall for my pond?
A With no hesitation, YES! Most definitely. First of all, waterfalls are beautiful to look at. The sound is soothing and relaxing and the water moving over rocks generates negative ions which are added to the air. As you breathe negatively charged air, it relieves stress and anxiety. Waterfalls also add extra oxygen to the pond. Waterfalls are a must!
Q I heard concrete ponds will leach alkali into the pond. Is that true?
A Yes and no. A poorly constructed concrete pond will, but only until algae starts growing on the sides. Also if the pond is constructed of 3500 psi concrete and coated with Thoro-seal T.M., it is impossible for alkali to leach out. Plus, if you use Doug Hoover’s secret mortar mix formula, the mortar in the waterfall between the rock will not leach either.
Q What is the advantage of building a waterfall using concrete and mortar?
A A major reason is that the rock will be securely mortared in place, preventing a serious accident from rocks sliding, as with a liner waterfall. Trust me, some day, some adventurous child will climb onto it. That is a lawsuit in the making.
Happy koi, peace & joy.
Douglas C. Hoover; CEO of Aquamedia Corp, Master Waterfall Builder, architect, engineer, freelance writer, author, designer & builder of over 1,900 waterfall and ponds in CA (26 years). Author of “Waterfall and Pond Construction Manual” and developer of the “Water Feature Digital Design Library 4.0″ Free downloads, no sign in- http://www.askdoughoover.com
Laguna Pondless Waterfall System Kit – Red Sandstone
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Laguna Powerjet1 1/4 inch Riser Stem With Quick Fit Coupling/Directional Flow Control for Pt430
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Smart Solar/Smart Solar 3772WRM1 Glass Mosaic Solar T-Light. Amber
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Smart Solar/Smart Solar 3010WRM1 Solar Dragonfly Light. Galvinized steel. Antique brown
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Bond Y98885 Quinn 8.5 inch Tabletop Fountain with Stones
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32″ Handcrafted “Kingston” Copper Roof Vinyl Cupola
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32″ Handcrafted “Mansfield” Wood Roof Vinyl Cupola
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32″ Handcrafted “Milford” Copper Roof Vinyl Cupola
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Aquascape – EcoRx – Anchor Control
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Aquascape – EcoRx – Ick Control
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Aquascape – EcoRx – Parasite Control
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BS GREEN CLEAN GRANULAR 8LB
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Parmak Super Energizer 4 Low Impedance 110/120 Volt 50 Mile Range Electric Fence Controller SE4
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Parmak 902 12-Volt Gel Cell Battery for Solar Powered Electric Fences
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Magnolia Classic Garden Border, 32″ x 24″
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Laguna Outlet Adapter 1/2 inch for Pt400
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Laguna Outlet Adapter 3/8 inch for PT294, PT300
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Laguna Phos-X Phosphate Remover 5288 Gallon Water Treatment – Laguna PT571
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Hanukkah Large Flag
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5′ Pre-Lit LED Outdoor Spiral Christmas Tree Yard Art Decoration – Multi Lights
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HALLOWEEN FLIGHT- Mini Flag
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Door and Window Draft Stopper – Tan
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Waterhog Entry Mat
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Printed Coco Coir Doormat Welcome Tulip Design
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USA America National Country Flag 3′ x 5′
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Boston RED SOX Fenway Park Green Monster Seats Tin Sign
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Patriotic Pinwheel
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